by:Dan
Whetzel
Deep
Creek is Marylands largest freshwater lake and Western
Marylands premier recreational destination site, as
each year thousands of vacationers enjoy the four-season activities
the lake offers. The increasing popularity of Deep Creek Lake
has caused many changes over the years, especially in the
development of lakefront property. While change has brought
growth and undeniable economic benefits to Garrett County,
it has also prompted long time residents to recollect when
the lake was undisturbed for years, and the tree covered shoreline
only hosted wildlife. As Deep Creek Lake approaches its 80th
year, let us take a trip down memory lane to an earlier time
when the region remained a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered
by vacationers.
Ground was broken for Deep Creek Lake on November 1, 1923.
Its name was derived from a stream located between Roman Nose
Ridge and Marsh Hill Ridge, and its purpose was to provide
hydroelectric power for the Pennsylvania Electric Power Corporation
of Johnstown, Pennsylvania. Approximately 8,000 acres of land
were purchased to begin the project, including 140 farms.
An ambitious undertaking, a new rail connection from the B&O
Railroad in Oakland, Maryland, became necessary to transport
heavy equipment and materials to the excavation site. A quarry
for stone crushing provided raw materials for the dam work,
while steel bridges were erected to accommodate rising waters
and vehicle traffic around the water. After months of planning
and construction, the hydroelectric plant went on line in
May, 1925.
The lake provided electrical service to distant customers
but offered few activities to residents during the years prior
to World War II. Organized events were hardly necessary as
the only population center was McHenry, a village settled
in the 19th Century. Local folks recall the early days of
Deep Creek when only three stores offered goods in McHenry:
C.M. Raileys, Glotfeltys, and Hubert Bowmans.
They were general merchandisers, while Bowmans also
served as a Post Office. Resident Leo Friend reminisced that
as a youngster, it was typical for him to walk a distance
of three miles to make grocery purchases at McHenry stores
where his father had accounts. Mr. Friends first soda
was purchased at Bowmans, and he bought cherry
because it was red. The only boats he observed were
small fishing vessels, while other forms of recreation were
limited to swimming and ice-skating. As the 1920s ended
and the Great Depression wore on, money stayed scarce, the
lake area remained sparsely populated, and visitors were infrequent.
Leo Friend could see only one house on the opposite side of
the lake from McHenry, an area today that bustles with private
residences and commercial activity, including Wisp Ski Resort.
While housing did not significantly increase during the lakes
first two decades, a modest start to nightlife began when
C.M. Railey built Stone Tavern near McHenry, one of the first
local establishments to serve alcoholic beverages after prohibition
was repealed. It was also a hotspot for square dancing on
weekends, as residents would pack the dance floor to enjoy
the entertainment provided by live bands. The tavern, a local
landmark, was razed several years ago when the new Deep Creek
Bridge was constructed. Tom Thayer of Oakland recalls Rainbow
Inn, located at the present day location of Arrowhead Resort,
as being one of the prominent commercial establishments outside
of McHenry, at the lake during the late 1930s. The busiest
nightlife spot according to Mr. Thayer, however, was Cabin
Lodge, where free shrimp on Wednesday nights caused patrons
to drink mountains of beer to cool off the shrimp; they
really made out on that. Cabin Lodge was appropriately
named, as it was constructed of logs in the early 1930s;
Eddie and Louise Fry operated the business. Adjacent to Cabin
Lodge was Thayers Barn; a typical agricultural structure
that was built before the lake was created but later converted
to a restaurant and a roadhouse. Tom Thayer remembers
several other barns around Deep Creek that were converted
to entertainment spots including Ardens Boat Club in
McHenry, McComas Beach on Red Run, and Blue Barn on
Beckmans Peninsula, where a summer theatre operated
for a number of years.
The beverage of choice for lake revelers was beer, and a special
cap on Garrett County beer bottles was required because of
a tax levied by the county. Tom Thayer stated, people
would go to West Virginia to buy their beer to save the tax.
Supposedly, West Virginia beer was only 3.2%, but everybody
would sneak up to Terra Alta on Friday evening to buy a case
of beer and bring it home.
Leaving early Deep Creek nightlife behind, lets make
our next stop at Johnnys Bait House, located along Route
219, south of McHenry. Scarce is the fisherman who did not
stop to consult with Johnny about water conditions and what
the fish were hitting. It could be said, without exaggeration,
that visits to Johnnys Bait House became a rite of summer
for many vacationers.
John Marple began his business as a youngster in a modest
way, selling night crawlers from an old washtub along Route
219, for 20 cents a dozen. The washtub marketing enterprise
lasted a couple of summers until Mr. Marples father
constructed a 3x5 building that enabled the young
entrepreneur to offer customers hooks and tackle to supplement
live bait sales. A subsequent improvement was moving the business
location to a dock on the lake where keeping minnows was possible.
A small building on the dock housed tackle and additional
boating supplies his customers requested. Following a two-year
stint in the military, Mr. Marple returned to Garrett County,
purchased lakeside property, and constructed a small building
that was to be the basis of his business over the next five
decades. Over that time period, a variety of goods and services
were provided including bottled gas, fishing boat rentals,
and boat repairs. Mr. Marple recalled that in the 1950s
and 1960s, most customers were from the Pittsburgh area,
but from that time forward visitors increasingly came from
the northern Virginia and Washington-Baltimore suburbs.
One promotion that attracted customers to his store was Johnnys
Bait House Fishing Contest, a joint effort of Mr. Marple
and the former Garrett County Promotion Council. I would
give them (fishing contest winners) a silver dollar for the
largest fish of the week, and it got customers into my store.
I would relay the weekly winners names to the council, and
they would have it printed in the newspapers. We ran that
about 40 years, and it turned out pretty good. I really handled
a lot of fish during that time. Not content to weigh
and measure other peoples catch of the day, he also
angled from his dock several times a week as a form of sport
and relaxation. I always did say that you would never
need a psychiatrist if you fished. I solved a lot of problems
from that dock. Mr. Marple noticed over the years that
yellow perch was the dominant species in the lake, although
it also produced nice size blue gills. The lake has
never been a pay lake where you throw a line in and catch
fish; you have to work at it.
Johnnys Bait House sales grew with the increased traffic
to the county. At first, there were a few summer cottages
to attract vacationers, some without roads to them. People
used to come and enjoy the mountains, water, and lake. People
also came to take a boat ride for one dollar. Not many people
had boats back then. According to Mr. Marple, growth
remained steady at the lake until sewage services became available
and then major development occurred because condominiums could
be accommodated on lakeside property. Another significant
change occurred when Johnnys Bait House was sold in
early 2002. Mr. Marple indicated the new owner offered to
keep the store name, but he decided it was time for
Johnnys Bait House to end. It was a good run.
Reflections of Deep Creek businesses would not be complete
without Bowmans Marina, a popular stop for boating enthusiasts.
The marinas owner, Charles H. Skeeter Bowman,
started boating early when two logs were nailed together
with old scrap boards, and we propelled it by using long poles.
Mr. Bowman grew up in McHenry on the family farm, now the
site of Garrett County Fairgrounds. My dad had this
farm, and we milked the cows by hand, and my job was to bottle
the milk, in glass bottles, and carry it to a cold spring,
and then deliver it to cottages in our area of the lake.
Mr. Bowmans father also operated the local Post Office
and a general store, so other business opportunities became
available including fishing boat rentals, the first such service
on Deep Creek. Charles Bowman purchased a few wooden fishing
boats in the mid 1930s and continued to offer them for
rental until the start of World War II. There really
wasnt much to McHenry at that time, just a few country
stores and a few residences.
Skeeter Bowman was always fascinated with flying,
so he enlisted in the Army Air Corp after World War II was
underway. Following military duty on Tinian, and bombing missions
over Japan, he returned to Garrett County and resumed the
boat rental business. In 1952, it was decided that a marina
in McHenry offered business opportunities, so Bowmans
Marina was born. It offered a full line of boats and a spectrum
of boating supplies including Johnson Outboard Motors and
Christ Craft wooden boats. In those days, boats were constructed
from wood, a labor-intensive boating material. Refinishing
boats kept us busy in the winter, recalled Mr. Bowman.
After two decades of marina ownership, the Bowmans decided
to sell the business in 1972, to become semi-retired.
The marina occupied much of his time, but Mr. Bowmans
passion for flying aircraft had the added benefit of providing
vacationers with an alternative means of arriving at Deep
Creekflying in by single engine aircraft. A portion
of the Bowman farm was developed as an airfield, on a site
now occupied by the fairgrounds, and vacationers from Pittsburgh
would fly in for weekend visits. The airstrip also provided
the entrepreneur with his own airline service to metropolitan
areas. I used to joke that I had the first airfreight
service in the area because I would fly to Baltimore and pick
up boating supplies and stack them in my plane. The
one-day supply service provided speedy service to marina customers.
If one looks behind Burger King in McHenry, they will see
the orange windsock that flies over Skeeter Bowmans
airplane hanger, a colorful reminder of the lakes past.
Long time visitors also recall Matt Storeys Marina,
located along Route 219 in McHenry. Mr. Storey not only sold
and rented boats, but he learned to build them as well. I
went to Florida and got a job in a boat factory; thats
where I learned how to make boats. Following service
in the Coast Guard, Mr. Storey decided to locate a business
at Deep Creek and put his carpentry skills to the test. Boats
in those days were made from oak and plywood, and special
precautions had to be taken for swelling and shrinkage caused
by water. Mr. Storey saw a potential market for boat sales
on the lake because the product was not plentiful before the
war, but a revitalized national economy after the conflict
promised economic growth and more affluent consumers.
Storeys boats were designed for fisherman and came in
two lengths, 12 and 14 feet. Deep Creeks first boat
factory was located in an old chicken coop along the water,
and he generally had one employee during that time. Boat building
only lasted about three years as large companies began to
enter the market and mass-produce them, making boat sales
and rentals a more profitable enterprise. He became a franchised
outboard Mercury dealer and a showroom dealer for many boat
companies. I would go to a boat show every year and
order new boats. I had many different lines of boats over
the years. Mr. Storey found that after 20 years, the
lake and business was growing too quickly. It just became
too big, and I decided to sell it, thus ending an important
link between Deep Creek and recreational boating.
While marinas, boats, and related fishing goods provided business
opportunities for lake entrepreneurs; Grace King is able to
reflect on a time when the word, Lake, was not
attached to the title. Having moved there in 1919 from Red
House, she and her father would frequently cross the stream,
called Deep Creek, on a bridge where Johnnys Bait House
would later be built. She remembers one occasion when her
father returned from a sale to find the stream flooding the
bridge, preventing folks from crossing and creating general
concern. Remnants of the road that Mrs. King traveled on are
now located under the water between the former Johnnys
Bait House and Rock Lodge Road. Another vivid memory of pre-lake
days is when her family was able to pack up the old
Ford on a Sunday and visit the construction site, where
intake tunnels were being dug through the mountain. Her brother
super-vised the familys tour of the massive tunnels,
as he was employed there as a construction worker during 1924-1925.
As time passed, Grace King married and established a residence
on the hill that overlooked the old bridge and road site.
In 1946, the Kings decided to build a small cottage
for friends who requested visits to the lake. Mrs. King recalled
friends didnt visit too frequently, and when they
did, they stayed in our house; I put a board out near the
road with Cottage For Rent written on it.
Her marketing efforts proved to be successful, as she rented
the cottage for $5.00 the first night. Over the next few years,
they purchased additional cottages for vacationers and seasonal
workers. Mrs. King maintained her rental properties without
assistance from 1964 forward, as her husband passed away that
year. Visitors came from all over the United States, and even
foreign lands, to stay at the summer cottages. After 56 years
of hospitality work, a decision was made to sell the property
and move to nearby West Virginia, close to her birthplace.
Even after five decades of general inflation and real estate
appreciation at Deep Creek, Mrs. Kings 2002 cottage
fee was still a reasonable $65.00 per night. Not one to regret
decisions, Mrs. King said it was time to move on, and she
now enjoys the country atmosphere of her new home in Aurora,
West Virginia.
As residents recall early establishments at Deep Creek, one
location mentioned but little understood, is Holy Cross House.
To recollect the genesis of Holy Cross House, one has to turn
the clock back to 1930 when Pennsylvania Electric Power Corporation
was approached about selling lakefront property to the Congregation
of Holy Cross religious order of the Roman Catholic Church,
for the purposes of constructing a retreat for seminarians
studying at Holy Cross College in Washington, D.C. The power
company proved to be reluctant about the sale because it didnt
desire to become embroiled in real estate development issues,
a concern that proved to be unwarranted as the men who pur-chased
the property desired a place of retreat, not economic
development, as long time visitor and Holy Cross Priest, Reverend
William Melody, recently recalled. The land originally belonged
to the Lohr family prior to the lakes construction,
and according to Father Melody, Mrs. Lohr wanted to move from
the home-stead, as she believed the rising waters near the
house threatened the safety of her children. The waters inundated
much of the farm, leaving 36 acres of the original tract for
occupation by the priests and brothers of Holy Cross. Father
Melody stated the potential purchase received criticism within
the order at the time. What are they doing, wasting
money during the Great Depression, on a barren hill in Western
Maryland? Now they look back and say, oh, what foresight they
had. Despite opposition, the property, including the
Lohr house, was deeded to the order for $3,000.
The facilities were built primarily by Holy Cross men who
lived in tents during the first few years. The first building
to be completed was the lodge during the summers of 1930-1932,
followed by the dining hall in 1932, and the chapel in 1937.
According to Father Melody, the seminarians and priests used
the skills they had, and the skills they could read about,
to build stone and wooden buildings on the site that has been
enjoyed for more than 78 years. Father Craddick, who had a
degree in architecture from Notre Dame, designed the chapel
that features wormy chestnut wood and a warm, rustic atmosphere
appropriate to the purposes of a retreat facility. Father
Wojciechowski built the altar, while Father Paul Beichner
carved Stations of the Cross that ador the chapel walls. Father
Beichner went on to become head of the graduate school at
Notre Dame for a number of years.
A number of other prominent church officials also enjoyed
the beauty of Holy Cross House at Deep Creek including: Father
Theodore Hesburgh, President of Notre Dame for 35 years, Archbishop
Heston, pastor of a congregation in Rome, Archbishop Graner
of Bangladesh, and Father Patrick Peyton, known as the Rosary
Priest. A World At Prayer Is A World At Peace,
a well-known admonition, is among Father Peytons credits.
There are great stories of great men here. Many of them
left and went to the missions in India, Bangladesh, South
America, and Africa, where they built churches and also established
services like sinking wells, building schools and hospitals,
and educating.
Not all Holy Cross House activities have been directly related
to Biblical studies, but they have always had spiritual and
recreational qualities of undeniable benefit. Our men
were great athletes. We challenged the local towns around
here to baseball contests, stated Father Melody. The
Holy Cross team would pile into the back of an old truck and
make the journeys to Oakland, Deer Park, Crellin, Terra Alta,
Westernport, Morgan-town, and Kitzmiller. Holy Cross would,
in turn, host the teams at their Deep Creek setting. Additional
information on the games was provided in a 1996 report written
by Father John Paige. According to the report, Father
Kehoe, who played shortstop, remembered the Holy Cross
team was dubbed the All-Stars because their uniforms were
used by all teams at Holy Cross and were all different. Local
teams would bring in ringers and consolidate all
the best players from surrounding teams to play us. There
were good crowds for the games. It was quite a social pastime
for the small towns, and for us. Father Melody concurred,
People remember those games. Standing behind the
rusty backstop that overlooks the lake, one can imagine the
spirited contests and fellowship of those summertime games.
Seminarians, priests, and brothers also pro-vided the general
population of Deep Creek with weekly spiritual renewal after
they made the improbable purchase of a surplus U.S. Navy lifeboat,
complete with canned rations. Father Melody reflects, We
used to go down at night singing Gregorian chants, American
hymns, and God Bless America; it was a weekly
thing, and people would be out on their porches waiting for
the choir to come by. It was still going strong in the late
40s. We had a great choir. During an earlier time,
Father Houser reported a similar experience. We would
line up the main boat that the men built, we put a Buick motor
into it, and behind that, a sailboat and 3 canoes. We tied
them together in a long string and that Buick motor pulled
everything. We sang the old songs, and we heard from the people
that lived along the stretch of the lake that they just waited
for Wednesday nights to hear us in the boats singing.
The men of Holy Cross no longer challenge the locals to baseball
contests or provide weekly religious music, but they do challenge
themselves on a more recent addi-tion to the facility, a homemade
9 hole, par 36 golf course, designed by Father Reely, former
chaplain to the Notre Dame football team. I dont
think Tiger Woods could handle our golf course. Sometimes
our greens are green; sometimes theyre not so green.
We get a lot of fun out of it, and its a challenge.
Holy Cross is rich in history but also mindful of the future.
In August 2003, seventy-five seminarians and other church
officials will gather to reflect on their missions and prepare
for the coming year. I look forward to the future with
great enthusiasm. We will be ordaining 7 young men this coming
year. Father Melody concludes, To me, this is
a sacred place because we are here to learn how to be good
ministers, and ministers by nature are supposed to be kind,
helpful, and caring. This is a kind of school for that. We
go out from here to minister to the people, wherever they
are, and to give of ourselves.
Not all recollections on our trip down memory lane are of
places; some are noteworthy events like the marathon swim-ming
races that occurred in 1939 and 1940. According to Tom Thayer,
contestant, the race was organized through the efforts of
well-known swimming coach, Joe Sollars. It was reported that
a crowd of 5,000 persons witnessed the four-mile event between
Cabin Lodge and Stone Tavern, including hundreds of parked
motorists along Route 219, who would move their vehicles to
keep pace with the swimmers. I was 13 years of age in
1939, and I entered the race against my mothers wishes
but at my fathers urging. I was second that year. A
fellow named John Nelson, from New York, was first. The second
year, 1940, I entered it again and won it, beating John Nelson.
Tom Thayers time was 2 hours and 12 minutes, and his
prize was a wristwatch, donated by Shaffer Jewelry Company
of Oakland.
Another unusual event during the 1940s was ice boat
sailing. A small group of men built the boats as a hobby,
as they enjoyed gliding across the lake at high speeds. Frank
Beckman, the youngest member of the group, credits four older
men with getting him started in the sport. They were: Pip
Thayer, Shorty Long, Buzz Gosnell,
and Lonnie Long. The boats were of wood construction and featured
three runners, two in the front and one under the seat. Mr.
Beckman recalls, the sails were about 10 or 12 feet,
and you would have to duck when the sail turned around. Winds
would come down from the mountain and you would really fly
across the ice. Homemade ice boat sailing lasted about
five years, later such boats were commercially produced and
offered for sale at Deep Creek.
Over the years, old Deep Creek gave way to a newer version,
and summer cottages faded away as large, multi-use facilities
replaced them. The first condominium near the lake was built
in 1970, by four partners including Tom Thayer. It was not
entirely certain that such an enterprise would be successful,
so the unusual name, Four Hooppole South, was
born. We called it Four because there were
four partners, Hooppole because that is what the
area was called, and South because that was where
we were going if it failed, reminisced Mr. Thayer. Needless
to say, the first condominium proved to be successful, and
others soon followed. Thayer believes that development of
Interstate 68 provided the impetus for lake growth as vacationers
from the Washington, D.C. suburbs found the lake to be a convenient
four-season retreat.
Reflections about the past help us capture a moment in time
when Deep Creek Lake exhibited little commercial development
and life was simpler. The keen observation that one can never
go home is true because change is a constant that we all live
with, but reminiscing about the past helps us better connect
with the present and establish a sense of community that is
important in building a better future. While there are many
reasons to recall the past, perhaps the best one was offered
by a local resident who stated, I just love talking
about the old days. Perhaps no other reason is necessary.
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